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LJUBLJANA
“In Your Pocket:
A cheeky, well-
written series of guidebooks.”
The New York Times
December 2009 - January 2010
Ski & Spa
Our annual winter guide is back
and better than ever
Best of New Year’s Eve
The best and the rest as chosen
by readers
Highlights of the
Coast
An hour’s drive is a world away
Enjoy your
COMPLIMENTARY COPY
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Contents
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E S S E N T I A L C I T Y G U I D E S
Contents
Arriving in Ljubljana
8
Getting around
9
Basics
14
Language, history and numbers
Quick Picks
18
The best of the best
Culture & Events
16
Music, festivals and exhibitions
16
Somehow not as scary covered in snow
Best of New Year’s Eve
19
Cultural centres and venues
23
What to see
60
Conferences & Fairs
26
Bridges, museums and the castle
Where to shop
66
Sports
31
The best of what and where to buy
Bovec
Where to stay
32
74
Business suites to hostel bunks
Dining & Nightlife
37
A year-round sports paradise
Ski & Spa
77
Where to eat
37
From extreme slopes to relaxing saunas
Highlights of the Coast
Everything from A to V(egetarian)
Cafés
47
80
The Mediterranean is only an hour away
Wine Tasting 82
East to West we have Slovenian wineries covered
Mail & Phones
Enjoy one of Ljubljana’s favourite pastimes
Nightlife
49
Dance and drink the night away
85
Keep in touch by post, phone and internet
Directory
86
Lifestyle
86
Business
88
In Your Pocket guides and mini-guides are published in 50 cities across the continent.
Maps & Index
Street Register
93
Europe’s leading publisher of locally produced city guides
City centre map
94
City map
96
Country map
97
Index
98
E S S E N T I A L C I T Y G U I D E S
The view from our editor’s roof circa 5am
ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
December 2009 - January 2010
Foreword
Foreword
Come Christmas time in Ljubljana it’s nearly impossible
for even the surliest of curmudgeons not to get caught
up in the spirit of the holiday season (present company
included). Despite the drop in temperature and seemingly
omnipresent fog, every December the city centre comes
alive with a panoply of sights, sounds, smells and activities
as winter takes hold and one year becomes another. Slow-
roasted chestnut sellers kick things off by setting up their
smoky wares at strategic points along the main pedestrian
streets, and shortly thereafter a massive tree is erected in
the centre of Prešernov Trg (p 61) and the entire old town
is blanketed with thousands of tiny lights. But perhaps
best of all are the small wooden stalls that eventually line
the Ljubljanica and various squares, selling all manner of
crafts and home-made goods, including copious amounts
of mulled wine and warmed schnapps - enticing crowds of
people from their warm cosy homes.
Content-wise we’ve been busier than ever this issue,
putting together all kinds of special features to keep you
active over the next couple months. There should be
something for everyone in our updated Ski & Spa section
(p 77). Ever wanted to spend the night in an igloo? Now’s
your chance! For those adverse to the snow, the winter is
a great time to visit the Slovenian coast (p 80), with it’s
mild Mediterranean climate and close proximity of things
to see and do. And for wine-lovers we’ve compiled our
largest-ever guide to Slovenia’s vineyards and wineries
(p 82). Of course we haven’t forgotten about New Year’s
Eve. In fact we ran a month-long poll to find out the best
places in Slovenia to spend the waning hours of 2009 (p
19). As always we welcome any and all feedback, be it on
Facebook, Twitter or even old-fashioned email.
Europe In Your Pocket
Press Box
Unique books from
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Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
WARSAW
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
VILNIUS
It has been another great year for
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A t S
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August - September 2009
August - September 2009
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“Death of the guide book? Pah! They’re just diversi-
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The Times, April 18, 2008
(In naming In Your Pocket as one of 10 guide book
publishers to trust, in the wake of the Lonely Planet
scandal).
Užupis
A brief sojourn inside Vilnius’
distinctly eccentric
independent republic
Vingio Parkas
From Tolstoy to rollerblades,
the city’s favourite park is
pulled apart and examined
Cover story
After the Battle
Warsaw Uprising 70
years on
The Mouth of
Old Town
Warsaw‘s Barbican
N°52
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ISSN 1641-5264
Although it may not look like it, we swear
that this photo of a rather remote-look-
ing field blanketed in snow was actually
taken in Ljubljana - and during the spring
no less. Robert Logie snapped it on
Avšičeva Cesta in the Savlje neighbour-
hood of the city’s northern outskirts
back in March of 2006.
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Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
BELFAST
Aug - Sep 2007
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
PRAGUE
YOUR COMPLIMENTARY COPY
December 2008 - January 2009
Better by
design
Stunning souvenirs,
stylish shopping and
local crafts on display
The Great
Outdoors
Feel the burn, catch the
waves, take a hike
Gastro Tourism
Northern Ireland on a
plate
Editorial
Editor
Yuri Barron
Writers
Yuri Barron, Will Dunn
Research
Irena Jamnikar
Layout & Design
Vaida Gudynaitė
Consulting
Craig Turp
Photos
Yuri Barron, Ljubljana Tourist
Office, Klub Top
Cover photo
Robert Logie
Copyright notice
Text and photos copyright IQBATOR d.o.o.
Maps copyright cartographer. All rights
reserved. No part of this publication
may be reproduced in any form, except
brief extracts for the purpose of review,
without written permission from the
publisher and copyright owner. The
brand name In Your Pocket is used under
license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokiečių
10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. +370-5 212
29 76).
Editor’s note
The editorial content of In Your Pocket
guides is independent from paid-for
advertising. Sponsored listings are
clearly marked as such. We welcome all
readers‘ comments and suggestions.
We have made every effort to ensure
the accuracy of the information at the
time of going to press and assume no
responsibility for changes and errors.
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December 2009 - January 2010
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Arriving in LjubLjAnA
getting Around
Arriving by plane
Ljubljana’s cosy little Jože Pučnik Airport is 26km north-
west of the city, near Brnik. Getting there takes about
30 minutes by taxi (€35-45) or shuttle (€5-8, schedule is
coordinated with flights) and roughly twice as long by bus
(€4.10, up to 16 per day between 05:00-20:00). Check
the airport’s website for a complete schedule.
A Word From Our Mayor
Officially part of the Schengen zone since late 2007 and
nearly completely surrounded by other Schengen-agree-
ment countries, entering Slovenia has never been easier.
With a well-developed system of buses, trains and high-
ways throughout the country, getting around is also fairly
easy. The centre of Ljubljana is relatively small, meaning
public transport is rarely, if ever, needed when in town.
International train schedule
From Ljubljana
To Ljubljana
First Last
City First Last
*
06:15 21:15
BELGRADE
05:50 21:50 4
02:00 08:40
BUDAPEST
12:03 16:35 2
08:05 07:25
GRAZ
06:34 18:37 4
Public Transport
Although most of Ljubljana’s sights are within easy walking
distance for even the most unfit and/or laziest of people
(and you can trust us as we’re proud card carrying mem-
bers of both groups), there is a far-reaching and fairly ef-
ficient bus network for reaching attractions farther afield,
such as the Zoo, BTC shopping centre or even distant
Šmarna Gora, or for those interested in seeing what the
city looks like outside the city centre. Although you may
be lucky enough to see some Tito-era antiques plying the
roads, the entire fleet is currently being modernised, so
most of the time you can expect a comfortable ride. While
nearly every stop has a schedule displayed, at most only
the frequency of departures is listed, which can make for
some frustratingly long waits. With the newly introduced
Urbana Card, 90 minutes of travel with unlimited transfers
costs only €0.80, although you can still pay with coins (€1
per ride, no change given) until the end of the year.
LPP (Ljubljanski Potniški Promet)
B-2, Slovenska
56, tel. (+386) 14 30 51 74, mail@lpp.si, www.lpp.si.
Ljubljana’s urban and suburban public transport company.
There are LPP ticket sales offices at Slovenska 56 (Bavarski
Dvor), Celovška 160 and the central bus station.
Q
Open
07:00 - 19:00, Sat 07:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
09:27 23:50
MUNICH
08:27 23:40 3
Arriving by train
Once you’ve worked out the tunnel and stair system and
made it to the main train station building, find everything
you need including an ATM and press stand selling top-up
cards (but alas no SIM cards) for prepaid SIM accounts.
Left luggage is provided courtesy of 80 coin-operated
lockers with instructions in English on platform Nº1, with
the toilets conveniently located next door. The station also
boasts a surprisingly good Tourist Information Centre, a
train information bureau immediately to the right and cur-
rency exchange opposite (open daily from 10:00 - 19:00,
Sat 08:00-15:00, Sun closed). Getting to town depends
as always on where you’re planning to stay and how fit you
are. Many central hotels are within reasonable walking
distance. Alternatively, find taxis outside, and make sure
the meter is running before you depart.
09:27 23:50
PRAGUE
07:14
17:11 2
09:27 23:50
SALZBURG
01:34 14:12 3
02:30 21:08
VENICE
15:48 21:20 2
05:45 17:25
VIENNA
07:56
15:57 3-8
07:26 23:50
VILLACH
04:07 19:27 7
02:00 21:15
ZAGREB
07:00 23:35 7
20:48
ZURICH
21:40
1
For me, Ljubljana is the most beautiful city in the the world
– unique for its special position in the heart of Slovenia.
As a city with rich history and cultural heritage, it attracts
ever more visitors every year from near and far. The most
important ambassadors for Ljubljana are undoubtedly
our residents, who live the intercultural dialogue and with
their openness, kindness, and hospitality always ensure
a touch of comfort and warmth.
All trains depart daily. Schedule valid until December
12, 2009
.
*
Trains per day
Trains
Slovenian Railways (Slovenske Železnice) does an admira-
ble job of running an efficient network with clean modern
trains that are usually on time. Their website (www.slo-
zeleznice.si) contains a wealth of information in English,
including live information on train delays as well as an
online timetable. See the national and international train
schedules in this guide for the main destinations.
Train Station (Železniška Postaja)
C-1, Trg Osvo-
bodilne Fronte, tel. (+386) 1291 33 32, potnik.info@
slo-zeleznice.si, www.slo-zeleznice.si.
Full of nice touches
such as little conveyor belts for taking heavy bags up to the
platforms, Ljubljana’s reasonably central train station just
north of the main action is slated for demolition, to be replaced
by a truly fabulous new building in 2010. See
Arriving
for
information on several of the station’s facilities, plus, if you’re
planning on leaving town, the ticket office straight out of a
1970s disco movie is to the left of the main entrance, with
signs and departure screens in English.
Arriving by bus
All national and international buses arrive at the central
bus station which is located directly in front of the main
train station. The temporary prefabricated station building,
serving passengers until the opening of the new combined
train and bus station optimistically scheduled for 2010,
features little in the way of facilities for recent arrivals,
making a trip to the train station almost compulsory. Per-
haps the only one of its kind in the world, the bus station
does however contain a Sixt car rental kiosk, with the only
other useful facility being a small internet café for which
tickets can be acquired from ticket window Nº1. Getting to
town is the same as described above.
Welcome to Ljubljana!
Zoran Janković
Mayor
Arriving by car
Driving to Ljubljana is a joy due to the good roads and
excellent signposting. The city is circled by a ring road
from where it’s easy to get to the centre. Simply follow the
parking signs for convenient places to leave your car near
the city centre. Once in the city, it’s best to walk the short
distances rather than drive through the heavy traffic and
narrow street. Also, if you’re staying in Old Ljubljana be
aware that it is largely a pedestrian only zone.
Urbana Card
I n Au gu s t th e
city bus opera-
tor, LPP, finally
introduced the
l o n g a w a i t e d
U r b a n a C a r d ,
a form of elec-
tronic ticketing
that will eventu-
ally replace the
previous hodge-
podge system
of payment that
included tokens,
coins and photo ID cards. The credit card-sized smart
card is similar to those already used in other cities,
such as London’s Oyster Card and Paris’ Navigo Pass.
The cards can be purchased for a one-time fee of €2 at
many locations including various tobacconists and news-
stands, tourist offices, the central bus station and LPP
offices at Bavarski Dvor and Celovška Cesta 160. Credit
can be added for any amount between €1-50 at these
same locations as well as at the 24 green Urbanomati
machines scattered around town - be aware that the
machines don’t actually sell cards though. When getting
on the bus simply touch the card to one of the green card
readers at the front entrance and €0.80 will be deducted
from the card allowing 90 minutes of travel, including
unlimited transfers. Until 31 December technophobes
can still pay with coins, although the cost is €1 and no
change is given.
National bus schedule
If Things Go Wrong
From Ljubljana To Ljubljana
First Last
City
First Last
*
06:00 22:30
BLED
05:00 22:30 18-22
10:15 20:10
CELJE
04:50 18:10 5-9
05:10 22:30
GROSUPLJE
04:23 21:45 50
17:20
The emergency number is 112 for fire, rescue, andambu-
lance and 113 for police. If possible, find someonewho
speaks Slovene to help you make the call sincethere is
no guarantee of finding an English speaker onthe other
end.The nearest Casualty Unit (Emergency Room) to the-
city center can be found at University Medical Centerat
Zaloška cesta 2, Ljubljana (D-2) and emergencytreat-
ment is free for members of EU, EEA, andSwitzerland. We
also list local pharmacies, dentists, andother services
in the directory. You can find it here. If you find yourself
in trouble with the police, call yourembassy immedi-
ately. The numbers for all embassiescan be found here
under Foreign Representation in the directory.Useful
Emergency Words:
MURSKA
SOBOTA
05:45
1
05:30 23:00
POSTOJNA
06:07 21:10 20
11:35 17:20
MARIBOR
06:52 13:35 3-4
05:30 23:00
NOVA GORICA
04:45 19:45 15
06:00 21:35
KOPER
04:56 19:30 13
05:30 19:30
JESENICE
05:44 20:44 14
05:15 23:00
KRANJ
04:20 22:15 50
07:10 22:25
NOVO MESTO
05:45 15:28 10
05:30 19:30
KRAJNSKA
GORA
NA POMOČ! (NAH POH-MOCH) - HELP!
gasilci (GAH-SEELT-SEE) - firemen
policija (POH-LEET-SEE-AH) - police
bolnišnica (BOW-NEESH-NEET-SA) - hospital
05:20 20:20 15
All buses depart daily. Schedule valid until February 1, 2010.
*
Buses per day
Castle Tunnel_ Renovated, reopened and sexier than ever
Ljubljana
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December 2009 - January 2010
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