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Little Charmer
Little Charmer
Designed by April Dobson, Sam is the
perfect ted to snuggle up to
made with pile going forwards
along the gusset in order to
give him a fringe-effect - you
may choose to mark yours out
in the opposite direction
which would achieve a more
traditional appearance. Draw
round all the pattern pieces
on the reverse side of the
mohair using a pencil or
marker pen, remembering to
mark the points for the joints.
Do the same for the foot pads
and the paws.
2
Cut out the pads and
centre mark on the gusset to
the seam on the side head
pieces and sew in place. With
right sides together, pin and
stitch around the ear, leaving
open where indicated. Pin and
sew the paw pads to the
inner arm pieces, then attach
the inner arms to the outer
arm, leaving a gap as
indicated for jointing and
filling.
4
With right sides
together, pin and sew
the leg pieces together,
leaving a gap for filling, and
the feet open in order to
attach the foot pads. To
attach the foot pads, line up
the centre front and back
markings on the pads with
the front and back leg seams
and pin in place. Pin all the
way round the foot pad. Place
the leg pad downwards (as
the bear is standing up) on
the sewing machine plate,
and sew in place.
5
Pin and sew the darts A
paws. Then cut out the
pattern pieces using
sharp, pointed scissors. Cut the
backing only, not the pile.
Once the pieces are cut out,
trim away approximately
1
/
4
"
of mohair around each one.
This may seem a bit laborious,
but it does ensure that the
minimum amount of mohair
gets trapped in the seams,
allowing the seam to lay flat
and neat once sewn. You
should have the following
pieces 1 head gusset, 2 side
head pieces (1 reversed), 4
ears, 2 bodies (1 reversed), 4
legs (2 reversed), 2 arms (1
reversed),2 inner arms (1
reversed), 2 foot pads, 2 paws
(1 reversed).
3
With right
S
Sam is so
cute and
cuddly that
he's sure to
win the heart
of every arctophile. Standing
30cm (12") tall, he is made
from wonderfully wavy
mohair and has a distinctive
pronounced face. Follow
these step by step instruc-
tions and Sam could soon be
shaking paws with the other
members of your hug!
have used bonded nylon thread)
•
Nose thread - colour and
thickness of your choice
•
Polyester filler
•
Pellets for the tummy
•
Paw pad material (I have
used German wool felt, but you
may choose to use ultrasuede or
suedette instead)
•
A 3mm (
1
/
4
") seam allowance
is included on all the pattern
pieces
to B at the top and
bottom of each body
piece. With right sides
together - pin and sew the
body pieces together, leaving
a gap as shown for stuffing.
Leave the neck open.
6
Comb out all
sides
together,
stitch the side
head pieces
from the tip of
the nose to the
neck. Pin the
head gusset in
place
matching
the
the seams from
the wrong side
first of all - this
ensures that no
unnecessary tufts of hair
poke through to the
right side. Turn all
the pieces the
right way out
and repeat
the process.
Step by Step
1
Read through all the
You Will Need
•
A sewing machine
•
1
/
4
metre of mohair
•
A pair of 38mm cotter pin
joints for the head
•
Two pairs of 38mm cotter pin
joints for the legs
•
Two pairs of 25mm cotter pin
joints for the arms
•
One pair of 5mm glass eyes
•
Sewing thread to match the
backing of the mohair
•
Strong thread for finishing the
seams and putting in the eyes (I
instructions carefully
before you begin. Trace
all the pattern pieces and
transfer to thin card, remem-
bering to mark the points
indicated for the joints, and
seam openings. Identify the
direction of the pile of the
mohair you have chosen, and
place the pattern pieces on
the material following the
direction of the arrows. I have
not indicated the pile direction
on the head gusset. Sam was
42
March 2001
11
Sew a running stitch
12
Stuff the paws, feet
7
Using polyester filler
10
Tidy up Sam's
and a stuffing tool,
stuff the head firmly -
fill the nose area first with
small bits of filler. Assemble
one half of the cotter pin
joint and place in the neck
using doubled strong
thread. Pull up tightly to
encompass the joint. Make
several tight back stitches
around the gathered area
and tie off.
8
Using two glass-headed
muzzle by
trimming away the
fur around the nose and
mouth. Many different looks
can be achieved by trimming
either more of less hair
away. Using the nose thread,
mark out the position of the
nose with a few horizontal
stitches to give yourself a
guide. Fill in the nose area
stitching from the top to
the bottom, finishing with
the mouth - you may choose
to give your bear a big smile
or a more serious look.
around the neck
edge of the body,
pull up tightly and fasten off.
Make a hole in the middle of
the gathered area with the
awl and pass the cotter pin
from the head through the
hole in the neck. Secure the
joints from the inside of the
body with long nose pliers.
Make small holes on the
points you marked on the
inside of the body and attach
each arm and leg securing
from the inside of your body
with your pliers.
and top of the
limbs (the joint
area) quite firmly. Fill out the
rest of the limb using strong
thread, ladder stitch the
openings together and fasten
off securely. Using polyester
filler, stuff the bear's bottom
and neck area firmly and fill
his tummy with pellets. Now
that Sam is complete, you
may wish to add a matching
ribbon around his neck or to
dress him in a suitable outfit.
pins, experiment with
different positions for
the eyes. Once you have
decided where you want
them, make two holes with
an awl and attach them.
9
Again experiment until
Bear Facts
For more information on
April Bears call 01525 210 200.
you get the right look
for your bear, pinning
the ears in at a variety of
angles. Once you are happy
with them, attach them to
the head using ladder stitch.
Work along the inside of the
ears and then down the
outside - once in place,
release any trapped fur with
the needle or a comb.
43
March 2001
Your Templates
At actual size
Side Head
Cut 2
(1 reversed)
Foot Pad
Cut 2
Ear
Cut 4
A
Joint Position
•
Head Gusset
Cut 1
Body
Cut 2
(1 reversed)
Joint Position
•
B
44
March 2001
Joint Position
•
Inner Paw Pad
Cut 2
(1 Reversed)
Inner Arm
Cut 2
(1 Reversed)
Outer Arm
Cut 2
(1 Reversed)
•
Joint Position
Leg
Cut 4
(2 Reversed)
45
March 2001
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